CONCIERGE PRICE: $7,430
TUDOR is launching a unique new version of its popular Black Bay Fifty-Eight model in 925 silver with an open case back – two firsts for a TUDOR divers’ watch, and creating a surprising incandescence.
The name of the radiant Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 model is, of course, a reference to the precious metal of its case, but also to 1958, the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres (660 ft), reference 7924 or “Big Crown”, was introduced. Among other aesthetic nods to this historic watch, this model offers a case 39 mm in diameter in keeping with the characteristic proportions of the 1950s. Ideal for slim wrists, vintage enthusiasts and those who like objects with a difference, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is also the first TUDOR divers’ watch to be made in silver and to offer an open case back.
1. Case with satin finish (matt), 39 mm in diameter in 925 silver, with an incandescence and an open case back
2. Domed dial, matt frosted taupe, with applied hour markers
3. Manufacture Calibre MT5400, certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) with a hairspring in silicon and a 70-hour power reserve
4. “Snowflake” hands, one of the hallmarks of the TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with grade A, Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
5. A choice of two straps: taupe Jacquard fabric with silver band or brown grain leather
6. Five-year transferable guarantee, without registration or mandatory maintenance checks.
The use of 925 silver is a first for a TUDOR divers’ watch, and the composition of the chosen alloy is a secret that the brand keeps close to its chest. The properties of this alloy are such that use does not affect the appearance of the case of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925. Entirely satin-finished for a matt effect, it possesses an unexpected incandescent brilliance, which can best be admired on the wrist. Its extraordinary texture lends a precious aura to this model, accentuated by its open case back, which enables an appreciation of its Manufacture MT5400 Calibre. These choices reinforce the dual aesthetic language of this model, midway between the legacy of a robust tool-watch that still defines TUDOR and a precious object.
TAUPE AND SILVER
The silver case of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is also accentuated by its dial, which is taupe in colour, and its matching bezel insert. Numerous silver details add the finishing touches to this model’s delicate face, especially the famous “Snowflake” hands, one of TUDOR’s hallmarks since 1969, as do the graduations and text. The same colour palette is found on the fabric strap offered with this model. The fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which, in 2010, became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its products. Woven in France on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality and comfort on the wrist are unique. In 2020, TUDOR and Julien Faure, a 150-year old family company, celebrated10 years of a partnership that began with the Heritage Chrono – the first model to be fitted with a fabric strap created by the craftsman – that was launched at Baselworld 2010.
THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5400
The Manufacture Calibre MT5400, which powers the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925, displays hour, minute and second functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres. Its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations.
Its build has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, as has a variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its running when it is completely assembled.
Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture MT5400 Calibre is “weekend-proof”; that is to say about 70 hours, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it.
THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY
Like other models in the Black Bay range, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 adopts TUDOR’s characteristic angular hands known as “Snowflake” that first appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. The result of a subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking, the Black Bay line is far from simply being an identical rerelease of a classic. Resolutely anchored in the present, it brings together almost seven decades of TUDOR divers’ watches. Whilst it is neo-vintage in conception, its manufacturing techniques and its robustness, reliability, durability and precision as well as the quality of its finish are above modern industry standards.
THE TUDOR DIVERS’ WATCH
The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954 with the launch of reference 7922. Waterproof to 100 metres (330 ft), it is the firstborn in a long line of “divers”. Affordable, robust, reliable and precise, it is representative of the philosophy of a tool-watch of the brand. The seven decades following its introduction have witnessed the constant improvement of this TUDOR divers’ watch and those that have gained unanimous acclaim from professionals in the field, including some of the greatest military navies in the world.
39 mm case, satin finished, in 925 silver.
Open case back with sapphire crystal
Unidirectional rotatable bezel in 925 silver with 60-minute graduated disc in matt taupe anodised aluminium and silver gilded markings and numerals
925 silver screw-down winding crown, with the TUDOR rose in relief with circular satin-brushed 925 silver winding crown tube
DIAL Taupe, domed
CRYSTAL Domed sapphire crystal
WATERPROOFNESS Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft)
Brown grain leather strap or taupe fabric strap with silver band, with 925 silver buckle
Manufacture Calibre MT5400
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Swiss chronometer officially certified by COSC
(Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
POWER RESERVE Approximately 70 hours
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28 800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
TOTAL DIAMETER 30.3 mm
THICKNESS 5 mm
JEWELS 27 jewels
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