CONCIERGE PRICE: $514,874
X-TREM-1 – STINGHD : FEEL THE BURN !
The Christophe Claret X-Trem 1
On its launch back during Baselworld back in 2012, the limited edition Christophe Claret X-Trem 1 mechanical tourbillon movement watch from Christophe Claret Watches Switzerland established itself as a unique example of Haute Horlogerie from Switzerland, and a perfect example made real of the Christophe Claret philosophy that “in watchmaking, everything has already been done, and everything has yet to be invented.” The limited-edition Christophe Claret X-Trem 1 mechanical tourbillon movement watch from Christophe Claret Watches Switzerland is a timepiece in which this inventiveness is made real, applying a new way of not only displaying hours and minutes in a steel, titanium or platinum case mechanical movement watch, but doing so in a high complication watch that not only features an inclined degree angle tourbillon, but the complete absence of any mechanical connection between the watch movement and the hollowed steel spheres which actually provide that hours – minutes display as they slide in sapphire crystal tubes left and right of the main watch case.
What the limited edition Christophe Claret X-Trem 1 mechanical tourbillon movement watch from Christophe Claret Watches Switzerland actually did in its original version, and continues to do in the small number of releases of subsequent versions of the Christophe Claret X-Trem 1 timepiece, such as the limited edition Christophe Claret X-Trem-1 StingHD, was to replace the mechanical connection between the watch movement and gear train and the hours – minutes indications by the use of the magnetic force, the hollow steel spheres enclosed with the sapphire crystal tubes to left and right of the watch’s main platinum, titanium or steel case following magnetic carriages, following the magnetic fields generated by the watch movement, each carriage sliding on a concealed, twin sliding rod system that anyone familiar with 2D routing and cutting will immediately recognize. The overall impression when first viewing the rectangular case design of the tubes Christophe Claret X-Trem 1 from Christophe Claret and its unique presentation of hours and minutes with magnetic steel spheres ‘floating’ in steampunk test-tube-like sapphire crystal tubes, with retrograde hours and minutes markings in a contemporary sports watch like font, matched with the 18th Century grand complication of an inclined degree angle flying one minute tourbillon for the seconds display, is one of striking modernity combined with undefined historical mystery and experimentation. The Christophe Claret X-Trem 1 mechanical tourbillon movement watch from Christophe Claret Watches Switzerland is a timepiece with a triumph of magnetism, almost guaranteeing the magnetic attraction of the watch buying public everywhere from the watch’s native Switzerland, to Germany, Monaco, New York and even Damascus, but at the same time mating this magnetism, the dark art of the earliest scientific experimenters with the very latest in Haute Horlogerie excellence.
While early versions of Christophe Claret X-Trem 1 mechanical tourbillon movement watch from Christophe Claret Watches Switzerland featured a black PVD treated titanium case with white or red gold (Christophe Claret loves titanium), subsequent versions of the Christophe Claret x trem timepiece, including the Christophe Claret X-Trem-1 StingHD, have evolved into a darker aesthetic, continuing with a black PVD coated main watch titanium case, but, in addition to the titanium case, adding the blasted black PVD look to other elements of the watch such as the black PVD coated stainless steel rings encircling each of the twin sapphire crystal tubes, or the lighter tones of the 5N red gold and damascened steel case with 5N red gold numerals and 4N pink gold-coloured stainless steel tubes of latest models.
Lurking beneath the three-dimensional curves shaped sapphire crystal of all the limited edition timepieces is the same Christophe Claret Caliber FLY11 mechanical, hand-wound movement, a movement which manages to juxtapose into one calibre hugely inventive detailing, but two mainspring barrels. The first mainspring barrel provides power for the double ceramic bearings equipped one-minute flying tourbillon, which regulates the power for the timing gear train. the choice of double ceramic bearings aimed at improving shock resistance, with both the flying tourbillon inclined and the tourbillon cage inclined at an angle of 30 degrees to improve readability.
With the second mainspring barrel powering only the sapphire crystal and hollow steel sphere hours and minutes display indication mechanism, this is regulated by a unique escapement addition to the movement which moves the pallet wheel of the display gear train once every twenty-five seconds via a cam and lever mechanism from the timing gear train itself. Ingenious stuff indeed. So how then, are the sapphire crystal encased hollow steel spheres, or balls, moved to display the retrograde hours and minutes? The magnets actually used in the Christophe Claret Caliber FLY11 mechanical, hand-wound movement contained beneath the three dimensional curves sapphire crystal case front and exhibition sapphire crystal case back window of the Christophe Claret X-Trem 1 from Christophe Claret Watches Switzerland are actually miniature magnets, transferring the power from the geartrain into the two sliding magnetic carriages, and then onwards to the hollow steel spheres which respond to the magnetic fields generated: the steel balls thus appear to float within their sapphire crystal tubes, and with the lack of any visible mechanical connection with gear train itself, this offers the wearer the neat trick of creating a mystery hands complication for the hours and minutes display (seconds are of course visible on the tourbillon), sidestepping the usual worry of combining the traditional fear of putting a magnetic components anywhere near a high end watch movement by using the magnetic force generated from miniature magnets, with highly focused magnetic fields responding to the geartrain input.
While the calibre, watch movement and gear train itself are all highly accurate, the hours minutes display is perhaps less so, although as Mr Claret would point out, this is not really the point. Well thought out additions to the Christophe Claret Caliber FLY11 mechanical, hand-wound movement, such as the double ceramic bearings of the tourbillon cage, mean that even with the magnetic fields generated by the mechanism which need to strong enough to move the twin hollow steel spheres, the power reserve hours are still excellent, at in excess of 50. That such an excellent power reserve has been achieved is a testament to the efficiency of the Christophe Claret X-Trem 1 movement and design. Winding and setting functions, as well as a great view of the black PVD coated grade 5 titanium movement base plate beneath the exhibition sapphire crystal case back window, are made using two pull-up rotating bows.
Of the current limited edition runs of the Christophe Claret X-Trem 1 from Christophe Claret Watches Switzerland, one particular standout is the limited edition Christophe Claret X-Trem-1 Sting HD timepiece, a collaboration between Christophe Claret and New York-based jewellery and accessory business StingHD. While the movement, titanium case, hours and minutes time display, inclined degree angle tourbillon and magnetic fields generated power for the twin steel spheres in sapphire crystal tubes remains the same, the overall aesthetic of the X-Trem-1 StingHD, as briefly noted above, is completely different. Gone is the white, red and yellow gold adornment of other Christophe Claret X-trem-1 models, replaced here with a more contemporary, all-black PVD coated Grade 5 Titanium Case, with hours and minutes indications and brand name and of Christophe Claret itself highlighted in blood-red across both the grade 5 titanium watch case and the three dimensional sapphire crystal front. The dark theme is continued on the three watch straps that the Christophe Claret X-Trem-1 StingHD comes provided with: the standard black stingray leather (a Sting HD trademark material) strap, with highlight red stitching, the second strap which can be user personalized, and a third, handmade bracelet with black diamond-adorned skull complete with ruby eyes. The blood-curdling theme is continued all across the Christophe Claret X-Trem-1 StingHD, with the double ceramic bearing tourbillon cage this time formed into the shape of a skull and crossbones in black chrome-plated aluminium, this skull having ruby eyes once again, while for its party piece, a unique coating to the three dimensional curves sapphire crystal case front of the Christophe Claret X-Trem-1 StingHD means that when warm breath is blown across its face, yet another skull, this time in white, is revealed. Beneath the three-dimensional curves sapphire crystal case fronts, the Christophe Claret Caliber FLY11 mechanical, hand-wound movement receives its own blasted black PVD coating. This particularly stunning example of the Christophe Claret X-Trem 1 from Christophe Claret Watches Switzerland is another extremely limited edition piece, available in a run of only eight examples.
– Rectangular with curvex profile
– Material : Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with red Super-LumiNova lines on the sides and red lacquered numerals
– Dimensions: 40.80 x 56.82 x 15 mm
– Water resistance: 2 ATM / 20 m / 67 ft
– Cylindrical ring-bound tubes in stainless steel, black PVD treatment
– A skull appears on the sapphire crystal when breathed upon Spheres Stainless steel, red colour
– Caliber: FLY11 – mechanical, hand-wound movement
– Dimensions: 26.6 x 46.4 x 11.94 mm
– Number of components: 432
– Number of jewels: 66
– Power reserve: 50+ hours
– Barrels: Dual barrels: one for the movement gear train, one for the time indications
– Escapement: Swiss lever // Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
– Tourbillon rotates once every 60 seconds –
– Flying tourbillon inclined at 30° supported by a double ceramic bearing, with cone-shaped pinion transmission
– Black chrome-plated aluminum skull with natural red ruby eyes
– Mystery hours and minutes displayed with indications provided by hollowed steel spheres moving 23 mm inside two cylindrical sapphire tubes. The metal spheres are driven by magnetic carriages following a thread.
– Seconds displayed on the tourbillon cage
– Movement state-of-wind indication
– Fast time adjustment is via an integrated pusher on the caseband at 12 o’clock
– Use of precisely-shaped magnetic fields in a mechanical movement
– No mechanical connection between the indications and the movement
– Winding and time-setting via lift-out rotating “bows” on caseback
– Skeletonized barrel
– Two watch straps supplied, one in black stingray leather strap and the other personalized
– One complimentary matching, handcrafted bracelet adorned with a black diamond encrusted skull with ruby eyes
Limited edition : 8 pieces
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