Champagne is a strange world. Especially when it comes to price.

There’s a limited amount of land, so the competition for the best grapes amongst the top brands is intense. And the process of making it is expensive, so this drives up the price too.

At the level of every day, vintage and non-vintage, Champagne, price is determined as much by marketing as by quality. However, at the rarified heights of the category, scarcity and quality are the key determinants. If you only make a few thousand bottles of a magical wine, then the people who want the best – mad money people – are going to pay whatever it takes.

So it’s not surprising that the five most expensive wines on the list are not only exceptional, they are also extremely rare. Two come from single, small vineyards, and the one just three small vineyards.

By Forbes

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Champagne separates the boys from the men

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Krug Clos d’Ambonnay 1998 $2,000

100% Pinot Noir A single walled vineyard of 0.68 hectares (about 1.7 acres) in the heart of Ambonnay, one of the most respected Pinot Noir village in Champagne, yields just 4,760 bottles of blanc de noirChampagne. The combination of this rarity, and the fact that it is an extraordinary Champagne, one packed with the power and intensity of a great red Burgundy, explains why it heads the list of most expensive Champagnes.

Bollinger Vielles Vignes 2004 $1,090

100% Pinot Noir That another blanc de noir follows the Krug in second place on the list shouldn’t surprise; single varietal Pinot Noirs are extremely rare in Champagne, and hence expensive, especially when this fine. This is another extraordinary wine made in tiny quantities, only 3,886 bottles in 2004. The fact that it’s priced at barely half that of the Clos d’Ambonnay is no reflection of it’s quality, but due, rather, to Krug’s (owned by LVMH) marketing muscle. In fact, I consider it the world’s best Champagne. The secret here is the Vielles Vignes on the label – old vines – and explains the unmatched depth and complexity the wine can achieve. There is no other Champagne like it.

Krug Clos du Mesnil 2003 $850

100% Chardonnay Another Krug, another single varietal, single vineyard Champagne, this one a blanc de blanc – all Chardonnay. Krug’s house style tends to be full-bodied yet steely dry, and it reaches its apotheosis in the celebrated Clos du Mesnil. It has Krug’s trademark flintiness, along with a precision one rarely finds in any white wine. After ten or fifteen minutes in the glass – if you can wait that long – it opens up and displays the luscious generosity of a Côte d’Or Chardonnay.

Krug Collection 1989 $470

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. In select years Krug holds back a small percentage of that year’s production for additional aging; this edition has spent an extra ten years in the cellar. These wines are not to everyone’s taste, but for collectors and Krugists, their release is awaited with eager anticipation. After 25 years the wine has acquired a deep golden hue, and a sense of opulence rarely found in Champagne. Still bright on the palate, it is redolent of pears and white peaches tinged with honey, spiced apples and a unique earthiness.

Roederer Cristal Rose 2006 $469

55% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay The price of Roederer’s Brut has gone through the roof since its adoption as the Champagne of choice by the hip-hop crowd, but it is nothing compared to the ascent of Cristal Rosé. When you combine the high-fashion status of the brand, the current vogue for rosé, and the limited amount produced, the reason for the stratospheric price becomes apparent. It is a very fine Champagne, showing a beguiling combination of voluptuousness from the Pinot with a precise, focused minerality from the Chardonnay. A study in refined harmony.

Salon 2002 $450

100% Chardonnay Another extremely rare blanc de blanc, made only in the best vintages. The grapes come entirely from the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, and the juice sees no oak contact and no malolactic fermentation, resulting in the high acidity that renders it one of the longest aging Champagnes. In fact, it requires much time – fifteen, even twenty years – before its true glory shines through.

Perrier Jouët Belle Epoque Blanc de Blanc 2002 $400

100% Chardonnay Probably the most famous “label” – there is no actual label, the bottle has enamel applied directly to the glass – in Champagne, certainly the prettiest, takes on a new look with PJ’s Blanc de Blank version of their iconic Fleur brut bottling. PJ’s house style tends towards lightness freshness, but here it’s given substance by the Chardonnay from their top rated Côte des Blanc vineyards. White floral elements – of course! – dominate the palate along with a subtle but lingering spiciness.

Dom Pérignon P2 1998 $399

Pinot Noir & Chardonnay For a long time my favorite Dom Pérignon has been their late-disgorged cuvées; that is Champagne that not only has been held back for extra aging, but spends that time resting on the lees, the dead yeast cells from the second fermentation. This adds weight, a rounder, more generous feel in the mouth, to the elegance of the standard DP. Formerly known as Oenothèque, it has now been renamed as P2, for Pléntude. No, me too neither, but such silliness doesn’t matter: what’s in the bottle is scrummy.

Bollinger RD 2002 $375

60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay Another late-disgorged Champagne – RD stands for recently disgorged – but a very different fizz from the DP above. Bolly is famous for its full-bodied style – you either love it or you don’t, I do – then those extra years on the lees just magnify the impression of a yeasty, brioche-like richness. The nose makes me think of warm, freshly baked bread. There’s a honeyed depth and complexity unlike any other Champagne, all toasted almonds, stewed fruit and hints of exotic Asian spice.

Perrier-Jouët Belle EpoqueRosé 2004 $350

55% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir The gorgeous bottle, with its clear glass and classic Perrier-Jouët fleur motif, provides an exquisite setting for the glorious pink of the Champagne within. Brimming with the essence of summer strawberries and crisp green apples, it has a mouthfilling roundness one doesn’t find in the standard P-J cuvée.

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