CONCIERGE PRICE: $130,460
Everyone knows that MB&F is an independent watchmaker that started out by creating what they called Horological Machines. The first two versions of the Horological Machine, the HM1 edition and the HM2 edition, were daring and original, making for a solid foundation of the MB&F brand. Yet it was undeniably the Horological Machine No. 3, the HM3, which really captured the attention of watch aficionados, collectors and industry people alike, putting MB&F on the horological map. That was due to the exceptionally inspired and unique movement and case design of the HM3 watch, which (literally) flipped all conventions around and proposed a genuinely artistic interpretation of time. The man behind the movement was Jean-Marc Wiederrecht.
The story of the HM3 started in 2008-2009 and lasted until 2015 when Maximilian Busser and his Friends decided to say goodbye to the HM3 and produce one final, 25-piece limited edition of the watch: the HM3 MegaWind Final Edition. During that period of time, there have been around 400 HM3 movements (and therefore watches) produced and, with all case material options included, a total of 19 different variations. The HM3 has admittedly been the most successful MB&F watch so far.
A STATEMENT WATCH
Be it in black, gold or titanium, with a giant rotor or a normal rotor, with super luminova or without super luminova… you either love it or hate it, probably for the same reasons. The HM3 watch leaves nobody indifferent and remains one of the few highly unusual, yet wearable watch creations. The HM3 is undeniably a statement watch and people investing in (and wearing) such a piece of time art are either fascinated by this type of independent watchmaking, or (slight) watch nerds that like to show off (a little) with truly unique pieces on their wrists. In any case, you need to think outside the box to go for the HM3.
On the MB&F HM3 MegaWind Final Edition, all the HM3 trademark design elements are very much intact: a uniquely shaped watch case where the dial is made of two big three-dimensional cones and a large semi-circular opening exposing the watch movement and the enormous winding rotor. The emblematic cones are made in paper-thin aluminium (chosen for its optimal strength to weight ratio) and are used to display the hours and the minutes. For the Final Edition of the HM3 MegaWind watch, Maximilian Busser chose this time to go for a case design in black PVD-treated 18k white gold and titanium. The design impact is immediate, to the point where one can wonder if Maximilian Busser had not already planned (and reserved) this material combination for his HM3 final edition many years ago.
A ROTOR FOR THE LEGACY
When the first Horological Machine No. 3 MegaWind was presented in 2013 (in 18k red gold and titanium or 18k white gold and titanium), it was not just a new version of the HM3, but also a completely new interpretation of time. In a sense, Maximilian Busser wanted to tell another story with his MegaWind movement and give even more space to the key element of his watch: the giant “battle axe” winding rotor. Composed of a central section in titanium and twin 22k gold blades, the iconic MB&F battle-axe rotor is placed in full view dial-side. The first generation of the HM3 had a smaller winding rotor for its movement, leaving some space for the large date display positioned at the outskirts of the semi-circular opening. The HM3 did away with that indication to make the watch even more impactful and even more playful.
The 22k gold iconic MB&F watch rotor is shaped like a “battle-axe” and has been called by MB&F the “mystery rotor”; it is placed dial-side and appears symmetrically balanced, apparently defying the laws of physics. Yet this symmetry is really an optical illusion as mass has been shaved off the underside of the blade on one side of the rotor, allowing it to function properly. Maximilian Busser’s HM3 rotor is definitely a rotor for the legacy.
SUPER LUMINOVA, THERE’S NEVER TOO MUCH
Focusing on the essential and telling the story of the time in an artistic way also means you need to work on your key elements to make them stand out. This is just what Maximilian Busser did with his HM3 MegaWind Final Edition where he (appropriately) placed a large amount of green super luminova on or around the most attractive elements of his watch: the hours and minutes indexes that gently revolve in their three dimensional cones, and at the periphery of the semi-circular dial opening so as to create a unique flash of green “lightning” effect as the MegaWind rotor turns at high speed within the HM3 gold and titanium case.
To make the lame really stand out, MB&F used what they refer to as the “latest high-performance Super Luminova,” called GL C3 Grade A. Given the unconventional shape of the watch cones and the rounded surfaces of the hours and minutes indicators, they needed to be hand-painted by a specialist who applied just the right amount of that powerful, green super luminova. Last but not least, it should be stressed that the green glow of the C3 super luminova offers a perfect contrast to the black PVD coating of the watch case.
Three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht / Agenhor
Sowind oscillator and gear train
Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph
Automatic winding rotor in 3 parts
hub in titanium with outer sections in 22K gold, fastened with 4 rivets
Time indications transmitted via ceramic ball bearings
Number of jewels: 36 (all functional)
Number of components: 270
Functions: Hours on one cone Minutes on the second cone
Available in 18k white gold/titanium or 18k red gold/titanium
Dimensions (exclusive of crown and lugs): 47mm x 50mm x 17mm
Number of case components: 52
Sapphire crystals: Sapphire cones and front and back display crystals have anti-reflective treatment on both faces
Strap & Buckle: Black hand-stitched alligator with 18k gold and titanium custom designed folding buckle
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