Moser & Cie., as a Swiss watch brand, remains relatively unique, as a family run affair that is no part of one of the “big three” watch brands from Switzerland, Richemont, LVMH and Swatch Group. If its recent “Nature Watch” is any indicator, a spectacular rival to similar efforts by Jaquet Droz and others, Moser & Cie’s independence does not mean that the brand from Schaffhausen, Switzerland (where Richemont owned IWC is also based by the way), is destined to produce only conservative watches.

No surprise that the brand would utilize the work of Andreas Strehler in their line of exquisite perpetual calendar watches, an association that can only be described as an indicator of real quality.

As additions to the H. Moser & Cie family of astounding watches, their “Pioneer Perpetual Calendar” watch ref. 3808 1200 in “Burgundy Fume”, and its sibling, the “Pioneer Perpetual Calendar” watch ref. 3808 1201 in “Funky Blue Fume”, the two watches known as the “Calendar MD” models, join a long list of H. Moser & Cie perpetual calendar watches.

While the brand has a long established history in the manufacture of perpetual calendar watches and the specialist movement design required to power them, the bold use of color evident in both Calendar MD models, the “Burgundy Fume” H. Moser & Cie “Pioneer Perpetual Calendar” watch ref. 3808 1200, and the “Funky Blue Fume” of the H. Moser & Cie “Pioneer Perpetual Calendar” watch ref. 3808 1201 is new to the range of calendar watches.

These latest H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Perpetual Calendar watches offer a stainless steel case, partly skeletonized leaf-shaped hands to display the hours and minutes of time against the beautifully deep color of the blue or burgundy dial face, and a discreet power reserve indicator. Pride of place on that blue (“Funky Blue Fume”) or burgundy (“Burgundy Fume”) dial side display is the dial real estate given for the month indicator and date indicator, each allotted its own indicator window, placed inline at the 3 o’clock position on the dial, mirroring the subtle power reserve indicator at the 9 o’clock position on the dial. The H. Moser & Cie “Pioneer Perpetual Calendar” watch ref. 3808 1200 in “Burgundy Fume”, and its sibling, the H. Moser & Cie “Pioneer Perpetual Calendar” watch ref. 3808 1201 in “Funky Blue Fume”, both originally launched in the month of November, offer stunningly rich color that is indeed an antidote to colors of winter heralded by the grey month of November. In reality though, it is not just the rich blue and burgundy colors of these two H. Moser & Cie.

Pioneer Perpetual Calendar men’s manual winding watches that is new. Aside from stainless steel case that remains an indicator of Perpetual Calendar tradition at H. Moser & Cie, a multitude of watch details are new for the November launched H. Moser & Cie “Pioneer Perpetual Calendar” watch ref. 3808 1200 in “Burgundy Fume”, and its sibling, the Cie “Pioneer Perpetual Calendar” watch ref. 3808 1201 in “Funky Blue Fume”.

Indeed everything from the watch movement itself to the hands of the time display indicator, the month indicator, date indicator, power reserve indicator, leap year cycle indicator (on the movement side), dial face and hands shape and that spectacular burgundy and November night sky blue color of the dial face are new, and all when taken together an indicator of what the word ‘Pioneer’ in the title of both the H. Moser & Cie “Pioneer Perpetual Calendar” watch ref. 3808 1200 in “Burgundy Fume” and the H. Moser & Cie “Pioneer Perpetual Calendar” watch ref. 3808 1201 in “Funky Blue Fume” actually means.

Both of the “Calendar MD” models from H. Moser & Cie, the “Burgundy Fume” H. Moser & Cie “Pioneer Perpetual Calendar” watch ref. 3808 1200, and the “Funky Blue Fume” of the H. Moser & Cie “Pioneer Perpetual Calendar” watch ref. 3808 1201, are indeed, highly innovative men’s hand wound watches, rivalling anything from the “big three” LVMH and IWC etc. to Richard Mille or Armin Strom pieces.

The stainless steel case of both Perpetual MD pieces should be taken as any type of indicator that these HMC men’s hand wound watches lack the very highest quality, but rather, they are intended to have the durability to be worn every day of every month, including November. Both the Perpetual MD pieces from H. Moser & Cie, H. Moser & Cie, the “Burgundy Fume” H. Moser & Cie “Pioneer Perpetual Calendar” watch ref. 3808 1200, and the “Funky Blue Fume” of the H. Moser & Cie “Pioneer Perpetual Calendar” watch ref. 3808 1201 are limited edition pieces, even if they are actually quite different men’s hand watches. The basic layout of both pieces is very similar.

Black alligator leather or rubber strap bracelet, stainless steel case, leaf shaped hour and minute hands hat are partially skeletonized, a small seconds sub dial placed at 6 o’clock also with leaf shaped hand, power reserve indicator set at 9 o’clock, leap year cycle indicator set not on the dial side display face side but rather on the movement side, and the two large, Andreas Strehler inspire, perpetual calendar dual window month and date indicator windows. Moser and Cie endeavor to make all this as readable as possible at night with superluminova used for hour and minute hands. The big difference between the two Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD models though, comes with the display and indicator details.

The “Funky Blue Fume” H. Moser & Cie “Pioneer Perpetual Calendar” watch ref. 3808 1201 has a dial face with traditional faceted indexes and superluminova equipped hour markers, while the smoked burgundy perpetual calendar MD model from Moser & Cie, the 3808 1200, is stripped of all indicator markings on the dial side face, with hour marker dots to mark the hours. Rest assured that inside the stainless steel case of both the H. Moser & Cie. “Burgundy Fume” “Pioneer Perpetual Calendar” watch ref. 3808 1200, and the “Funky Blue Fume” H. Moser & Cie watch ref. 3808 1201 men’s hand wound watches, the same innovative Andreas Strehler inspired 7 days power reserve double barrel movement powering the perpetual calendar dual window display of month and date on the dial side face.

Visible through the transparent case back, the hand wound movement is very finely detailed and proudly shows off its in house Straumann Hairspring design and module type interchangeable Moser escapement. The movement is offered the water resistance and protection it deserves by virtue of the stainless steel case, which as Moser & Cie. endeavor to explain, offers both Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD models some 120m of water resistance. Good reason to have a black rubber strap bracelet option in addition to the black alligator leather strap choice.

The Moser & Cie men’s hand wound Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD models, whether in November night sky “Funky Blue” or the more daring “Burgundy Fume” offer the discerning watch buyer limited edition pieces that combine the very best in movement and complication innovation in a conservative package with a twist. Stunning.

Reference 3808-1200, steel model, Burgundy fumé dial, black alligator leather strap, limited edition of 50 pieces

Diameter: 42.8 mm, height (excluding sapphire crystal): 11.3 mm Curved sapphire crystal and see-through case back
Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”
Water-resistant to 120 metres
Burgundy fumé with applique indexes and sunburst pattern Superluminova® hour marker dots
Leaf-shaped hands, partially skeletonised
Superluminova® elements on hands
HMC 808 hand-wound calibre
Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes
Height: 6.3 mm
Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h
32 jewels
Power reserve: minimum 7 days
Double barrel
Hacking seconds
Original Straumann Hairspring®
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Hours and minutes, small second
Perpetual calendar with date and month Big date display
Month indicator window
Power reserve indicator
Leap year cycle indicator on movement side
Black alligator leather or black rubber
Steel pin buckle, engraved with the Moser logo

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An antidote to colors of winter

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